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Saturday, 13 June 2015

Sensational Strawberry Pavlova and 'How Baking Works' Review


I've been making pavlova for many years and didn't think I had much to learn about making this meringue based dessert. WRONG!  You see I've been reading How Baking Works (and what to do when it doesn't) by James Morton.  I'm sure you remember James Morton from the Great British Bake Off, this young medical student (now qualified) has taken his medical scientific mind and applied it to the science of baking.


So what is in the book?  It starts by telling us 'How This Works', James promises no flowery language everything simple and direct.  The book is designed to explain to you how to make the basics of baking, with some recipe suggestions but with the intention that, once mastered, you will go on to make your own variations.

Forebake is an excellent primer for baking well.  A list of ingredients with full explanation of their contribution to the bake and how best to use them.  There is also a list of essential equipment which won't scare you off as it really is pretty basic.

The Basics takes you through techniques and staples, reducing the fear factor of Creme Patissiere, Creme Anglaise,  Creme Brulee, Frangipane and Caramel, including how to save crystallised caramel.  Melting chocolate is demystified and chocolate ganache couldn't be easier.  Three different types of buttercream to fill those lovely cakes, marizpan, crumble topping and even jam and curd making.  Each one described carefully and simply with step by step instructions.

So now we are really ready to start baking each chapter starts with some basic instructions and lots of reasons why you need to do certain things, I do like to know why, don't you?
The detailed notes on the variations will help you make changes to your recipes without risking disaster.  If things still go wrong, James is ready with a list of troubleshooting tips.

This is the pattern for CAKE, SPONGE, BROWNIE, MUFFINS, TORTE, BISCUIT, SHORT, SWEET, CHOUX PUFF, MERINGUE and  MACARON. Following the whys and wherefores are the recipes.

And here are some of the recipes that took my fancy: Celeriac Cake with Strawberries and Cream, Wee Sponges with Passion Fruit Curd and Italian Meringue, Macadamia and Raspberry Blondies, Yoghurt Muffins, Squidgy Gingerbread Muffins, Torta Caprese, Chocolate Orange Cookies, Iced Rings, Mushroom and Thyme Tart with Poached Egg, Cherry Bakewell , Frangipane Fruit Tart, Choux Divorces, Eccles Cakes, Kiwi Pavlova (I made it with strawberry instead!) Mango, Raspberry and Pistachio Roulade and Caramel Macarons.

Who is it for? When I first started to read this book, I thought it was a book for baking geeks, who look at baking as a science rather than an art and who need to know every little detail before they start to bake. Well it would suit that type of baker, but to be honest, I think everyone who bakes would benefit from reading How Baking Works and I do mean READ.  It was only when I sat down to read the book that it all came together for me and I could see what James was trying to achieve.

Pros: One of the things I really liked about this book was just how clearly you could hear James' voice.  Perhaps that was easier because I watch GBBO avidly, however the style is informal, the language is quite clearly James' own.

Cons: There are less recipes than you usually get in a cook book this size, but as explained at the beginning that's because the real purpose is to teach you to understand how each type of bake works.

The Verdict:  This book should be on the shelf of every wannabe baker and also of those of us who have been baking successfully for years but didn't know quite why we were successful!  I will certainly branch out a little more using the knowledge I've gained from reading How Baking Works.






James Morton's Kiwi Pavlova 
and Janice's Strawberry Lemon Curd variation
makes one sizeable spectacle

4 medium egg whites
200g caster sugar
1 pint double cream
caster sugar and vanilla extract, to taste
6 kiwi fruits

1. First, preheat your oven to 120C/100C fan/Gas 1/2.
2. Into a large clean bowl (not plastic or silicone), place the egg whites.  They should be free of any trace of yolk - if there is any remaining, use a soon to coop it out and use a torch or the light on your phone to make sure there is none left.
3. Using an electric whisk or stand mixer on the highest speak available, whisk the whites until light, fluffy and stiff.  When they're not getting any bigger, start adding the caster sugar, a teaspoon at a time, still whisking on the highest speed.  When it's all incorporated, keep whisking for a bit longer before setting aside.
4. Use a wee touch of the meringue to stick a sheet of baking paper to a baking tray.  Then, scoop your meringue into one massive circular blob.  Try to make it thinner in the middle and thicker towards the edges.  A thicker crust is required because so much of the centre will become soggy when laden with cream.
5. Bake your meringue for approximately 2 hours - I like a bit of beige (even brown) on my Pavlova. Leave it to cool on the tray.


6. Whip the cream by hand in a cold bowl until just coagulated, adding sugar and vanilla to taste.  Peel and slice the kiwi fruits.
7. Scoop about the cream on top of the meringue disc and spread it around.  Add about a third of the kiwi fruits then cover completely with another layer of cream and top with the rest of the fruit.  Preferably in a big pile.  Keep in the fridge and serve over the course of the following day.

To make the strawberry variation use 1 punnet of strawberries, hull and half them. Mix 3 tbsp lemon curd into the whipped cream or use good quality Greek yogurt.  Put all the  cream or yogurt mixture onto the pavlova and place the strawberry halves on top in circles.  Dust with a little icing sugar.

I've always added cornflour and vinegar to my pavlova to create the marshmallowy texture inside the crisp shell, but this recipe did all that without any additives and was just fabulous and will be the ONLY way I will make pavlova in future.


As James would say of the pavlova of his childhood: " There would be an attempt to slice it, but then it would simply be scraped from it's tray and shovelled into a bowl, just as it should be"

How Baking Works by James Morton
Photography by Andy Sewell
Published by Ebury Press
RRP £20

Here are some other Pavlova variations you might like to try:
Mini Chocolate and Rhubarb Pavlovas - Tin and Thyme
Banana Pavlova with Chocolate Fudge Sauce - Farmersgirl Kitchen 
Chocolate Berry Pavlova - Farmersgirl Kitchen 
Strawberry and Creme Fraiche Pavlova -Lancashire Food
Diamond Jubilee Pavlova - Fab Food 4 All

I'm adding this to Dom's Simply Eggcellent Linky at Belleau Kitchen as there would be no pavlova without eggs!

Not forgetting Simple and in Season over at Ren Behan/Food for those wonderful seasonal strawberries.

And Bake of the Week, I'm not quite sure how Helen at Casa Costello manages to keep this weekly linky going, but she does and it's a source of lots of amazing bakes so please do visit.

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Sunday, 10 March 2013

Banana Pavlova with Chocolate Fudge Sauce



 
I was recently contacted by 'Greener Scotland' to take part in their campaign to make Scotland a Greener place. Greener Scotland’s message is simple: when we all get involved in something it can make a big difference and by living greener, creating our own individual Greener Scotland plans and working together we can make Scotland a better place to be with cleaner air, warmer homes, less noise and pollution, as well as better health and fitness for the nation.


  • We can all do our bit to help make Scotland a cleaner and greener place to live by eating food that is in season and planning ahead to reduce food waste
  • Cutting back on food waste is a smart move. By planning ahead and storing food appropriately you’ll be doing your bit to help create a cleaner, greener Scotland
  • By reducing the amount of food we throw away, we can save up to £430 a year
  • If we all cut back on food waste, the carbon savings could add up to the equivalent of taking one in five of Scotland's cars off the road
I have planned my menus and shopping lists for many years and enjoy being creative with leftovers,finding that the leftover dishes are often better than the original!  I'm also a frequent entrant to the 'No Waste Challenge' a blogger's challenge originated by Kate at Turquoise Lemons and this month being hosted by Elizabeth, the Shetland-dwelling, blogger at Elizabeth's Kitchen.  The theme this month is 'eggs' and I had two egg whites left over from something (can't even remember what!) I made last week, lurking in the fridge in a bowl covered with clingfilm. 


Although it was Mother's Day today, we had too much to do today to take my mother-in-law out (it was also extremely cold with snow flurries) however, she does like meringue so I thought I'd make a little mini Pavlova.

The recipe I use is very simple, usually it is three egg whites to 6oz caster sugar (somehow, for me, meringues are measured in imperial rather than metric) that's 2oz of sugar for each egg white.  Beat the egg whites until stiff, add the sugar a spoonful at a time and then add 1 tsp of cornflour mixed with a tsp of white wine vinegar.  Spread the meringue mixture into a round on a sheet of baking parchment and place into the oven heated to 160C, turn down to 150C and bake for 30-35 minutes.  Shut off the oven and leave the pavlova to cool for another hour.

I served the pavlova with ice cream, sliced banana and Chocolate Fudge Sauce made with 70g dark chocolate, 1 tbsp golden syrup, 1 tbsp muscovado sugar and 2 tbsp milk, heated gently on the stove and swirled over the ice cream and banana. The Chocolate Fudge Sauce is made with ingredients which are all in my cupboard and adpated from a number of different recipes most of which required double cream which I didn't have!  It was not a disappointment: rich, warm and dark it was the perfect foil to the crisp meringue and cold icecream.

If you would like to find out more about how you can make a Greener Scotland, check out their website.

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Sunday, 8 July 2012

Chocolate and Berry Pavlova

Doesn't that look fabulous?  I can confirm that not only was it totally delicious, it wasn't difficult to make.  The recipe comes from a new book 'Make it Easy' by Jane Lovett published by New Holland Publishers.

Jane describes Make it Easy as "A book for the home cook with the emphasis on get-ahead, easy, seasonal recipes with a contemporary twist"  The  book starts with useful top tips, notes on presentation, do's and don'ts and some general notes.

There are nine chapters: soups and starters, fish & shellfish, meat, poultry, weekend lunches, vegetables and salads, desserts, quick nibbles & drinks, bits, bobs & basics.  There are so many great dishes in this book and they come with 'Get Ahead' tips showing you how far you can prepare before the meal.  This is an ideal book for anyone who new to  entertaining or is concerned about which dishes to make and getting their dishes to the table on time!  You can wow your guests with Vietnamese Herby Chicken with Nutty Green Rice Salad or Salmon en Croute with Lime and Coriander Sauce

Even if you don't do much entertaining, there are some great recipes to eat with the family, like the Quick Creamy Smoked Haddock Saffron and Chive Risotto and Spicy Sausage, Lamb and Bean Bake.


However, I was drawn to one particular dessert, not only because it contains some of my favourite flavours, but also because it fits perfectly with the July 'We should Cocoa' challenge which requires a combination of Blackcurrants and Chocolate.

Chocolate and Berry Pavlova

Serves 8-10

4 egg whites
a pinch of salt
280g caster sugar
1 tsp cornflour
1 tsp cocoa powder plus extra for dusting
1 tsp vanilla essence
1 tsp white wine vinegar
500g frozen mixed berries (I used frozen blackcurrants and redcurrants and fresh raspberries)
50g good quality plain or white chocolate
425ml double cream
Icing sugar for dusting

Preheat the oven to 140C (275F), gas 1 and line a flat baking sheet with foil or baking parchment.  Whisk the eff whites with a pinch of salt until stiff, then add 225g of the sugar, a tablespoon at a time, whisking it in well between each addition.  The mixture will be very thick and shiny.  When all the sugar is incorporated add the cornflour, cocoa powder, vanilla essence and vinegar and whisk well again.


Pile the mixture onto the lined baking sheet and mould it into a flattish round shape, roughly 20-25cm across and 4cm deep.  Make a dip in the middle using a metal spoon.  Cook for 45 minutes, then turn the oven off leaving the pavlova inside until cold, without opening the door.   Carefully peel off the foil.


Put the frozen berries into a non-reactive pan with the rest of the sugar.  Warm gently over a low heat, just until the fruit has thawed, trying not to break it up.  Tip into a sieve over a bowl and leave to drain for 15 minutes or so.  Pour the juice back into the pan and boil fast, giving it the odd stir, until it has reduced to a syrupy consistency and just coats the back of the wooden spoon.  Leave to cool.  It will thicken up much more when cold.


Melt the chocolate in a small bowl suspended over a pan of hot water or in a microwave and carefully brush over the inside of the pavlova.  Dust the outside with cocoa powder, then icing sugar (I forgot to do this!)

Whip the cream lightly into soft peaks and spoon into the centre of the pavlova.  Mix the berries and the sauce together (this is when I added the fresh raspberries) and spoon over the top.



Get Ahead

The pavlova can be made several weeks in advance,wrapped tightly in clingfilm and kept somewhere cool and dry.  The chocolate can be brushed over a few days in advance.  Make the fruit compote several days in advance and keep the fruit and sauce covered separately in the fridge, or freeze.  Only mix together just before using.  The cream can be whipped as early as you like on the day but should be under whipped as it will thicken up whist in the fridge. 

Hints and Tips
Leave out the cocoa if you prefer and the chocolate too.
Cracks don't matter at all and most of them can be concealed by the filling if you so wish

I've never brushed chocolate on my pavlovas before, but it is absolutely brilliant and really adds to the rich, earthy flavours of the berries without overpowering them.  I would highly recommend this recipe and will be bookmarking more recipes in Make it Easy  which is available through a popular on line bookshop for £14.99.

As I said earlier, this is my entry for the July 'We should Cocoa':   Chocolate and Blackcurrants which is hosted this month by Choclette at Chocolate Log Blog

 Disclaimer: This is a sponsored post. I was not required to write a positive review and any opinion expressed is my own.

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Sunday, 8 April 2012

Rhubarb and Ginger Pavlova

Or rather 'mini-pavlova'.  I made mini pavlovas because the visitor I was expecting,  who does not eat wheat is also careful about how much dairy she eats, so I had planned to use Alpro vanilla dessert instead of the half fat creme fraiche that the rest of us would eat.  In the end my visitor was not able to come, but I enjoyed thinking of dishes to meet her dietary requirements.

Pavlova
3 egg whites
175g caster sugar
1 tsp vinegar
1tsp cornflour

Lay a sheet of baking paper onto a baking tray.  You can draw out a 20cm circle for a large pavlova or smaller ones for the mini-pavlovas.  Or if, like me, you can't be bothered with that, you can make them freestyle!   Heat the oven to 160C.

Whisk the egg whites until they are stiff.  Then whisk in the sugar a teaspoon at at time until you have one teaspoon left.  Blend the cornflour and vinegar together and add with the last spoonful of sugar.

Spread or pipe the meringue to cover the circle or circles on the baking tray, building up the sides so they are higher than the centre.

Turn the oven down to 150C, put the pavlovas into the oven and bake for 1 hour for the large one and about 45minutes for the small onesTurn the oven off and leave the pavlova until it is cold.  Lift off the paper and put on a serving plate.


This is the first pick of rhubarb from the garden this year, I'm not quite sure how much weight.  There were about half a dozen short stems, which I chopped to even lengths then put in a Pyrex roasting dish and covered with about 50g sugar.  Roast the rhubarb in the oven at about 160C for 15-20 minutes until the sugar had melted and the rhubarb is soft but hasn't broken up.

Put about 100g of whipped cream or creme fraiche into a bowl.  Chop two pieces of stem ginger and stir into the cream, then add about half of the rhubarb and mix through.
Fill the pavlova (s) with the cream mixture and top with the remaining pieces of rhubarb and drizzle with the lovely pink rhubarb juice.  If you don't have time to make the meringues then this is a quick, easy and impressive dessert to make with bought meringue nests.

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Monday, 6 June 2011

Chocolate Pavolvas with Strawberries









This is the first time I've actually managed to take part in 'We should Cocoa' challenge run by Choclette at Chocolate Log Blog and Chele at Choclate Teapot  You can read all about the challenge HERE, but basically you have to make something with chocolate or cocoa and a 'special' ingredient chosen by the host.

I was making pastry today for a quiche and the recipe uses two egg yolks, so I had two egg whites left.  I am renowned for leaving egg whites in the bowl in the back of the fridge to use 'later'.  Of course, later rarely comes and I end up throwing them out.  I had half a punnet of strawberries left from the weekend, so immediately thought I could make meringues,  or even better some meringue nests or mini pavlovas.  Then I was struck by inspiration.....I have a recipe for chocolate pavlova, I've made it before several times and it is fabulous.  I could make that and top it with greek yogurt and strawberries. Can you tell how excited I was?

It's funny how these things work out,  when I did my Random Recipe for Belleau Kitchen, I used the book 'Seasonal Cooking' by Claire Macdonald.  I haven't cooked anything from it for ages.  This recipe is also by Claire Macdonald and it's from 'More Seasonal Cooking' - the sequel!

So how do you do this?  Claire makes a huge pavlova but here is what I did:

For the Pavlova
2 large egg whites
100g caster sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla essence
1 tbsp cocoa powder (I used Green and Blacks), seived

Line a baking tin with baking paper.  Whisk the egg whites until stiff.  Then, still whisking gradually incorporate the caster, a spoonful at a time, until the meringue mixture is very thick.  Measure in the vanilla essence and, with a large metal spoon, quickly and thoroughly fold the sieved cocoa into the meringue - watch out for little pockets of cocoa.

Pour and scrape this mixture onto the lined baking tray either in a single round or individual nests.


Bake in a moderate oven 350F/180C/Gas 4/for 2 minutes then lower the temperature to 200F/110C/Gas 1/2 and cook for a further hour.  Take the pavlova out of the oven and leave to cool.



Claire fills her pavlova with whipped double cream mixed with grated dark chocolate - it is divine!  But that's not what I made,  lets get back to the strawberries.

I read Hugh Fearnly-Whittingstall in the Guardian magazine at the weekend, he as mascerating strawberries in lemon juice and caster sugar, so I did that with my strawberries - very good too.  I didn't have any cream, but it is rare that I don't have a tub of Greek Yogurt in the fridge, so I dolloped that on the pavlova and topped with strawberries and grated chocolate.


Pretty impressive huh?  I even impressed myself and was really pleased to rediscover this recipe,  it's so easy and completely delicious, enjoy!

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